Spotlight: Russia

A brief interview with the Mamajama about the Russian Adventure!!

What was the first thing that struck you about being in a different country?

I was struck by similarities with an American city. I have been pondering how homogenous the world seems to be. The first large building I saw was an IKEA. They have many of the same stores in their malls. I remember there was a time you would go to different malls for the unique shops, but now I can get the same Benetton sweater in Moscow! So even though I couldn't read the street signs, I didn't feel "lost".

Was there anything you expected that you didn't experience?

I expected to see more of a police/military presence. There were lots of uniforms in the Kremlin, of course, but I thought it is more noticable in New York subways. We were surprised by the affluence displayed. I saw more Bentleys on the road in one afternoon than I had in my entire life! I also didn't see Father Frost dressed in blue. Santa wore a red suit everywhere, and I'm sad this tradition appears to have been changed.

Did you notice people wearing hand crafted items (scarfs, mittens)?

Kind of hard to tell when people are bundled up and there was an abundance of fur but I think a lot of the knitted stuff people wore was handmade.I just realized I didn't notice any crocheted stuff!

We hung out in the typical tourist parts of the city, so crafts were readily available. But even at the local Metro station, street peddlers offered knitted mittens and hats so I presume there is a thriving market. There are coat checks in almost every building and every lady's pure seemed to contian a lace shawl to ward off any chills. There is a large permanent craft fair held every weekend - even on holidays. It is not easy to reach and I don't think there are that many tourists to support all those booths so the locals must be the main customers. I did try to converse with some of the dealers but I think they were mainly salesmen since no one could answer my questions on how something was made - and yes, most of them spoke English.

Did you see any craft stores?

The only disappointment of my trip was that we didn't find a yarn or fabric store - sigh. We did see a sign in one mall with a sewing machine. Lisa checked her dictionary when we got home, but it seems it was advertising alternations. I did look up the address of the viking machine dealer but I wasn't brave enough to try to find it on my own.

What did people do on the subway ie. listen to music, read?

People on the subways kept to themselves. A few people read and I saw some IPODs but I couldn't hear anything even standing next to them. Because the trains run so frequently, no one runs to make a train and I didn't see anyone holding the doors for someone. I was particularly struck by the absence of litter, and I don't remember seeing any trash cans. No one paid any attention to the stray dogs so I wonder what they ate.

How was the food?

The food was good but we did treat them to the American places - like Pizza Hut and MacDonald's. The Russian restaurants we went to were delicious but nothing far from what our grandmothers cooked. My favorite meal was at the craft fair - grilled meat (Shaslik) with great bread. At one place we ordered garlic bread and it was pumpernickel!

Did you experience any "home cooking"?

The only authentic homemade food we had was a few leftover bilinis Luba, their houskeeper, made for the girls' lunch. They were tender crepes which we filled with strawberries - Sophia's favorite. I think Grandpa needs a crepe pan to practise before they visit here. Luba made us borcht for dinner one night. I wish I had watched her make it - I know what ingredienents she used but I would love to know her technique. It seemd very similar to what we make.

Did you notice anything interesting about art?

We did go to the Pushkin Art museum which displayed the work of Russsian artists next to more famous one. I was struck how they were similarly influenced by different movements. I also noticed the soft colors everywhere. It wasn't meant to be in sharp contrast with the greyness of the weather but a definite difference to the conrete of the communists. Even the matrushka dolls are evolving. The majority still have every square inch covered in lacquered bright color but I saw several decorated with wood burning to highlight the wood grain. I think this art form is evolving.

I did notice that they seem to be reviving their old art forms. They are replacing copies of buildings that were destroyed. I didn't notice any difference in the style of clothing and the cars were all models we have on our roads.

I did notice a difference in how they decorate public Christmas trees - they call them New Year trees. There are only a few strings lights - usually in straight lines from the top and large ornaments hung in well placed patterns. Some had carefully arranged criss-crossing garland that I loved! One of the things I wanted to see was the tree in front of the Bolshoy Theater - I had seen pictures years ago that reminded me of Faberge eggs and it still does!

Good Morning

It’s 8:30 AM and we’re the only ones up! It snowed a little last night so everything looks pretty. They are only just starting to clear the road. It is a holiday week so I don’t know if this is normal. The maintenance men are pushing something that looks like a lawnmower and using brooms – not shovels. I have seen people using snow brooms made out of twigs - hope to get to see one up close.

The sky is only just starting to lighten but my mind thinks it’s only around 6 AM.

Forgot to talk about television here – they have cable with the 4 armed forces channels. There is also BBC World News, Sky News, and a channel in Japanese, one from India, another in German and of course lots of Russian ones. There is a Russian one in English called Russia Today - mostly news. A nice assortment – I’ve even caught some craft shows but I miss my Create.

We’re all supposed to go to Mega Mall today – the one with Starbucks. The girls call it the Barbie Mall. We saw 2 toy stores there so I expect to be hustled. I didn’t know it also has an IKEA! So it is REALLY big! We might have lunch there – it’s going to be a fun day.

Played Tourist Today

We decided to be tourists today and went to the Pushkin Museum of Art. Mike had to go to work and Luba could watch the girls so we went off on an adventure. Lisa hadn’t been to that part of the city, so the maps were consulted. It was a long subway ride – don’t think I mentioned the doors start to open before the train comes to a complete stop – no wonder they don’t lean on them! I even got a seat – the seats run straight down each side and the heat is under them - it was nice and cozy. When we got there, we had to cross a major, 4 lane avenue without a light. The traffic doesn’t slow down – so you can’t dawdle.

The museum is small but very nice – a wide variety of well known artists with Russian counterparts. There were several self portraits – it was nice to look into their eyes. You can get real close to everything - didn't notice any security stuff except for lots of middle aged ladies watching you. Of course we headed straight for the Monet’s – surprised that there wasn’t a haystack – but there were 3 different cathedrals hanging next to each other so you could study the subtle differences. There were probably more workers than people there and no school groups. The museum shop was just a counter of some art books in Russian – Lisa and I thought they could use some better marketing. There was a cafe but we headed for another businessmen’s lunch.

Back on the Metro – this time we all had seats! We went to a Beer Garden – a building, no garden - decorated with 1920s stuff. First newly renovated Ladies’ Room – all the others have been small, utilitarian and worn. Think they are catering to the expat crowd - there was a Santa on the reception desk holding a sign “I believe in Santa” – in English. The food was delicious. For appetizers, I had herring with grated beets and apples, Ron and Lisa had mushrooms in cream sauce. For our entrees, I had stroganoff, Lisa had salmon, and sausage and cabbage for Ron, all with scrumptious mash potatoes again. First time I saw Russian tea cups but no samovar yet. We had water and Lisa had a beer - the bill came to less than 1,000 ru – a bargain!

Stopped in a book store - large selection, but no coffee or seats. A wide choice in English – didn’t notice any other languages. Looked briefly at the craft section – saw some crochet and quilting books even a translated silk ribbon embroidery copy of one that’s on my shelf at home. Hope I can get back there when time isn’t short.

Decided to take the bus home. Not one of the standard ones – a small yellow van. The fare was only 20 ru and it stopped right outside the gate. Every seat was taken and I sat right by the door- not a good idea. I didn’t realize I was in charge of passing up the money to the driver, make change and open the door - caused some grumbles but I got better.

The girls were deep into Barbie – seems they decided to move in their My Little Ponies into the first floor of the dream house. I didn’t know some ponies have magnets in their hooves – makes interesting refrigerator art. Mike was home early so we had a dinner of leftovers. The girls continued the fashion show – there are just so many new combinations to try!

A few other things I don’t think I mentioned:
You check your coat everywhere without tipping.
Stairs in public places are carpeted just down the center. Since most are marble, those of us who need the banister are on slippery footing. They use the metal stair rods my mother couldn’t wait to get rid of once she got wall to wall carpeting.
You have to pass through metal detectors and there are lots of security types in dark suits all over.
We haven’t seen an elevator – just stairs or a few escalators.
Don’t see any fire escapes – so with the lack of hydrants, I’m starting to wonder what they do in the case of fire.
Walking on the right isn't always the norm - I don't see signs so you have to watch where everyone else is headed - yes, I've had to turn around and get it right.

Just realized I didn’t take any pictures! Drat! At least the camera is small and doesn’t weigh much.

My feet hurt

Russian adventure update.
Mike took us for a tour of the Kremlin today. We walked for 4 hours - should have remembered the Kremlin was a fortress - hence on a hill. It's huge and lots of cobble stone and steps.
Saw some incredible stuff. Lots of coronation gowns, carriages, state gifts, etc. Cathedral Square has more churches than I thought - each is magnificent. They were setting up for the big New Year's Eve celebration - had to step over cables, etc. They had just delivered these elaborate ice sculptures of various sites in the Kremlin - hope the pictures will show the details. Since it is the government center, there are lots of restricted areas and police types.
Passed lots of vendors but didn't get to convert any money so I couldn't buy anything - this is a cash economy. Lots of various head gear - Amy and Claire would have ball trying things on me! Passed 2 MacDonalds and saw lots of American logos - there is a huge Mercedes symbol on a building in competition with the stars. The guide told us a lot about the skyline - the stars rotate with the wind but the crosses on churches are always aligned east to west. During WWII they were camoflauged in Moscow and removed in the countryside. Seems to have confused the Germans.
Rode the subway - very crowded and gets warm. Trains run about a minute apart - no one runs for a train or holds the doors or pushes - as clean as they advertise - marble stations - very deep - reminds me of London. I was surprised to see dogs in the stations - strays not guide ones. Mike said strays are all over Moscow. They aren't aggressive and roam by themselves - not in packs. The crows are 2 toned - grey bodies with black wings and heads that end in "collars". I didn't see any together to tell if the collar patterns are the same on each bird. There doesn't seem to be any accommodations for people with disabilities anywhere.
Lots of plain hair styles - guess hat hair is a common malady. Didn't notice any trash cans. There are people with booms sweeping everywhere - young men not old ladies. The only trash I saw was cigarette butts.
We had lunch in a fancy restaurant. They have "business lunch specials" - full meals at low prices. We had a salad, borcht, and some white fish with delicious mashed potatoes. We each had a bottle of water for our "cocktail" - all for 250 ruples (the exchange rate at Kenndy was 20:1) so that was less than $50 for the 3 of us - not bad because Lisa says a bottle of water at a restaurant goes for around $10!
People don't drink the tap water here - Brita must make a fortune!
There is a tram system - the red and yellow cars from "Doctor Zhivago" are still running! Traffic is horrendous - there doesn't seem to be any traffic lights. They must be there but you have to fight to make a left turn - not that much of a problem - everything is so backed up so you can just nose your way across. Hard to imagine the car race scenes in the Bourne movies! I can understand why Lisa won't drive here. No one walks across a street - there are underground passage ways for pedestriains - but in the middle of the block - adds to the walking.
I understand why Lisa says everything here is grey - the sun was out for maybe 10 minutes and it's dark around 4:30. They must use something like ashes instead of salt on the snow - the streets are clear but dirty - the cars are filthy. The people are well dressed - lots of fur, of course. Didn't notice many Ipods or people talking - everyone keeps to themsleves with down cast eyes - few smiles. Even the kids on school tours weren't fooling around. Noticable difference in attitudes from New Yorkers.
Have to get some sleep - body is fighting switching times.